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Posts Tagged ‘breeding

By Ben Anton

Hope for the opposite as we may, humans don’t enter this world on an even playing field. Even excluding complex socioeconomic issues, inequality lurks in our medical charts: some of us are genetically predisposed for medical issues such as heart disease and certain cancers. A study from Harvard’s School of Public health suggests that our genes even make some of us more likely to be obese*.

The genetic injustice doesn’t stop with homo sapiens. Our canine companions can be genetically fated for certain disorders as well due to breeding practices. Over countless generations, dog enthusiasts created the various breeds by selecting and breeding only dogs that displayed certain desired traits, such as certain coat colors and face shapes. This selective breeding for appealing qualities depleted genetic diversity, leaving weaknesses in individual dogs’ genetic maps.

For instance, the intense breeding required to produce the Dalmatian’s stunning spots also brought their genetic predisposition for ailments such as kidney stones and deafness. Along the same lines, poodles are well-loved around the world for their gorgeous, hypo-allergenic fur and intelligence. Unfortunately, rigorous breeding to satisfy demand for these popular pooches has also made poodles the breed most predisposed to disease: they have been linked to 145 genetically-influenced disorders.

Obesity is no exception. In many cases, the causes of obesity are self-evident: as in humans, when a dog eats too much, and exercises too little, he or she is likely to become overweight. Additionally, low-quality, low-protein dog foods may encourage overeating, as dogs need to eat more to feel satiated. The majority of canine obesity cases are rooted in these causes.

However, certain dog breeds are more likely to gain excessive weight, for the reasons listed below. If you’re feeling worried because your adorable puppy’s breed is listed, take heart: we’ve also listed techniques for preventing weight gain, or, if it’s too late for prevention, helping your dog shed those extra pounds.

Chow Hounds: Breeds Likely to Eat Quickly

A quick review of the history of the canine species explains why some dogs practically inhale their food. Many experts believe that dogs broke off into separate species 15,000 years ago, when certain wolves opted to step into a new human-created niche, living near the easy food supplies of waste dumps. In this circumstance, it made sense for dogs to eat quickly, so they could ingest as much food as possible before the appearance of rival dogs or predators.

Today, the original utility of rapid consumption has been replaced with the problems of obesity and dog bloat. Obesity results when owners often assume that their chow hound is still hungry, leading to over-feeding. Gastric tortion, or dog bloat, is a much more immediately severe disorder in which the dog sucks up air with their food, causing the stomach to twist in on itself, blocking exits, even as digestion continues to release more gas. The deep, narrow chests of breeds such as the Collies and the St. Bernard make them more likely to suffer dog bloat. Other fast eaters include large breeds such as Labrador retrievers, Basset Hounds, Rottweilers and any dog that had to worry about having its food taken away as a puppy. Keep in mind that any breed may eat too quickly; monitor your dog’s eating habits to determine if he or she is overeating food.

How to Slow your Chow Hound Down

? Set a consistent feeding schedule, and stick to it. Many vets suggest two daily feedings, in the morning and evening. Record how much you typically feed your dog each day, and check with your vet to see if this is an appropriate amount. Avoid giving your dog table scraps and other people treats.

? Create an obstacle in your dog’s bowl. Some owners and vets recommend placing a tennis ball or large rock in your dog’s bowl to slow eating. Other, more aesthetically-pleasing solutions, like the DogPause Bowl, uses the same principal to simply but effectively slow down a dog’s eating pattern. These bowls have half-cup divisions in the bowl that create an obstacle for your puppy to work around in order to get to its meal.

Canine Energy: Breeds that Need Lots of Exercise

Some dogs were specifically bred for work. Shepherds were bred to run around all day herding sheep, for instance. It’s no surprise, then, that work dogs like German Shepherds, Dobermans, Rottweilers, and Beagles put on extra weight when they don’t get daily exercise.

How to Get Your Four-Legged Friend Back to a Healthy Weight:

? Get out there and play. A half hour of exercise is a good idea for all dogs, regardless of size. Your dog may need more – some vets recommend that you walk your dog one city block for every ten pounds of weight. Talk to your vet about the recommended amount of exercise for your puppy to see if his or her breed may require a little extra time running around to stay in shape.

~Ben Anton, 2008

About the Author: Dog Pause Food Bowls: Don’t let your dog overeat. Find out how you can reduce labrador overeating at DogPauseBowl.com.

Source: www.isnare.com

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By Geoffrey English

This past winter I attended a number of Sportsman Shows throughout the northeast where I performed numerous waterdog retrieving demonstrations, showing the versatility of the English springer spaniel and Labrador Retriever. What amazed me while speaking to the average outdoorsmen was not the fact that they were unaware of a spaniel or the Labrador Retrievers’ versatility, but rather that they were unaware that there was a difference between show and field gundogs.

During the show I was absolutely amazed at the number of avid outdoorsmen who had little, if any, understanding of the qualities that go into breeding world-class gundogs. Throughout the course of these sportsmen shows and meeting tens of thousands of avid outdoorsmen, I would venture to guess that better than 70% of the folks I met were unaware that such a difference existed. Ask those same individuals what gauge or shot size they would use to hunt a species of upland game or waterfowl and they could easily rattle off the pros and cons of each.

So, why do these individuals have such a keen understanding on selecting the appropriate guns and loads but do not demonstrate an understanding in selecting a suitable hunting companion? The answer is a lack of education on the difference between show and field bred gundogs. Manufacturers spend countless dollars each year educating outdoorsmen on why one particular model or brand of shotgun is better than another when hunting their favorite quarry. However, when speaking to breeders about selecting a suitable hunting companion, many will claim their dogs are “bred to hunt”. That simply may not be true! And I am reminded of phrase that echoes in my head from business school, “caveat emptor”, literally translated “Beware Buyer”.

For better than a half-century, the sporting dog breeds have gone in two separate directions when it comes to qualities sought after by professional breeders. With most sporting breeds, the “dual champion”, a dog that has attained the champion title in both the show and the field, is harder and harder to come by. In fact, the last Labrador Retriever to achieve a dual champion title was in 1984, Ch-FC/AFC Highwood Shadow, sired by FC/AFC Highwood Piper. According to 2001 AKC reports only 26 show champion Labrador Retrievers have achieved the Master Hunter title. The first lab to do so was Ch. Topform Edward, MH, owned by Larry Reider of Independence, Missouri and trained by Bobby George of Blackwater Retrievers in Warrensburg, Missouri.

Why, you may ask? Simply put, both areas have become so competitive in recent years that breeders in both the show ring and the field have changed what traits they breed for in order to be competitive. To be successful in the field, professional breeders must focus on breeding traits that are highly desirable during your typical day of shooting. In contrast, a show breeder must focus on traits that relate to the confirmation and structure of their breed. I once heard a gentleman summarize it nicely, “Field breeders are producing the athletes and show breeders are producing the models”.

Champion show or bench breeds must adhere to a strict confirmation standard and are nearly perfect physical specimens. Per the confirmation standard, male show Labrador Retrievers should stand 22 ? to 24 ? inches at the withers, 21 ? to 23 ? inches for bitches. Males in working condition should weigh approximately 65 to 80 pounds, while females should weigh 55 to 70 pounds. Typically speaking, show Labrador Retrievers’ torso should measure no longer than their height at their withers, giving them a very balanced appearance. Their skull should be wide, well-developed but without exaggeration (a “blocky” appearance). The show Labrador Retrievers’ upper lip should not be squared off or pendulous, but fall away in a curve toward the throat. Their eyes should be of medium size, well set apart and neither protruding nor deep set. Their lids should be tight with little or no haw showing. In contrast, by breeding strictly for performance over the past 30 plus years, the field-bred Labrador Retriever has resulted in a dog that can look different from their counterpart, the show Labrador Retriever. Simply putting the two side by side can be an education in itself. The field-bred Labrador Retrievers’ physical make-up is athletic and very functional for field activities. They tend to vary in size and structure.

The avid outdoorsmen would be enlightened as to the differences between show and field bred gundogs by simply attending each event. The two events could not be more different and so are the dogs that compete in them. While attending a field trial, it would become immediately apparent that dogs are not judged on physical appearance. They are judged against other dogs for their performance in the field. In contrast, show ring competitors are judged against a confirmation standard, not for hunting ability or trainability.

This past year I had the fortune to attend numerous National Field Trial Championships and saw some of the best dogs in the world compete for both the English and U.S. National Championship honors. Field trials where established to offer breeders a chance to evaluate suitable dogs for the breeding purpose, with the goal of improving the sporting breeds through “selective breeding”. It’s at these field trials, were breeders can compete their dogs, one against another, and make sound breeding decisions that influence their strain of spaniel and the future of the sporting breeds. Reputable breeders are always looking for ways to improve on weaknesses in their breeding program. Every dog has some type of weakness, regardless of the titles he or she holds, whether it’s bird finding ability, mouth, marking ability, intelligence, trainability, or confirmation. There are always areas to improve on, and field trials offer breeders the best opportunity to evaluate these strengths or weaknesses and find suitable breeding stock for future generations.

Over the years, selective breeding has done its job; it has created two different types of gundogs, field and show, each the very best at their particular discipline. When clients ask field breeders if their dogs could be shown in the ring, often it would be a mistake for field breeders to proclaim such a possibility. The same could be said for show breeders when asked if their dogs can compete in field trials. However, without proper education, an avid outdoorsman may buy his next hunting companion based simply on the common breed name and end up with a dog that has about as much hunting ability as a Miniature Schnauzer. Remember as my business school professor used to drill into our heads, “Caveat Emptor” – Beware Buyer!

About the Author: Geoffrey A. English is the Founder of GundogsOnline.com, the internet’s premiere online magazine dedicated to hunting dogs. Visit their site for more information on training bird dogs and products from Tri-tronics, SportDOG, and Dogtra.

Source: www.isnare.com

Permanent Link: http://www.isnare.com/?aid=280883&ca=Pets



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  • Kitty: I have a friend who uses a seatbelt which attaches to their harness. This helps to keep the dog from straying to far in the backseat of the car.